2 medium bunches red or green chard (about 3/4 pound each)
Cut the stems into 1/2-inch pieces. Coarsely chop the leaves; rinse well, but do not dry. Heat in a large skillet over medium-low heat until the oil smells good and the garlic is just beginning to color:
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon small red dried chili pepper, crumbled, or 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
Add the chard stems and season with:
Salt to taste
Cook, stirring occasionally, until the stems are nearly tender, about 2 minutes. Add the chard leaves and cook, partially covered, until both the leaves and the stems are tender, 3 to 5 minutes more. Season with:
Juice of 1/2 lemon or 1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Taste again for salt. Serve in a bowl, surrounded with: